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Waterproofing wet rooms — walls and floors

Membranes, tanking, and why tiles alone aren't waterproof

Wet room wall cross-section Cement board / blockwork 🛡 Waterproof membrane — the real barrier Tile adhesive Tile ↑ Water penetrates grout over time ↓ Membrane stops it here

Tiles are not waterproof

This is the most important thing to understand about wet room tiling: tiles and grout slow water down but don't stop it. Water molecules are smaller than the pores in cement grout. Over months and years, water migrates through grout joints and reaches the substrate behind. Without a proper waterproofing membrane, this moisture causes mould, structural damage, and eventual tile failure.

Where waterproofing is needed

Types of waterproofing

Liquid-applied membranes are painted or rolled onto the substrate. They cure to form a seamless, flexible waterproof layer. Easy to apply, they conform to complex shapes and corners. Most require two coats with a reinforcing tape at joints and corners. This is the most common choice for domestic bathrooms.

Sheet membranes are pre-formed waterproof sheets bonded to the substrate with adhesive. They provide a consistent, guaranteed thickness. Used for larger commercial wet areas and where a faster workflow is needed. More expensive but more reliable.

Cementitious waterproofing is a cement-based coating that forms a rigid waterproof layer. Suitable for tanking (sealing concrete against ground water) but not ideal for tile substrates as it doesn't accommodate movement.

Critical details

Tip: Before tiling, do a flood test. Block the drain, fill the wet room floor to 20 mm depth, and leave for 24 hours. Any water loss indicates a membrane failure that must be fixed before tiling.

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